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Tasting: Hubert Lignier Gevrey-Chambertin 2014

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Back to Burgundy and further north in the Côte de Nuits and the village of Gevrey-Chambertin.

Pinot Noir with balls. End of story.

Pinot Noir really is the pinnacle of winemaking – a tough grape to grow, a tough grape to vinify. The ability of the winemaker really shines through with Pinot. Simply put, there is nowhere to run to, nowhere to hide.

Hubert Lignier is one of the top producers in Gevrey-Chambertin, one of the northernmost appellations in the Côte de Nuits region of Burgundy. Run by Laurent Lignier after the tragic death of his brother, Romain, in 2004, this is a fifth generation Burgundy operation, centered in Morey-St-Denis but with vineyards dotted around Gevrey and Chambolle as well as Morey.

Laurent’s wines run the gamut of Bourgogne classifications from basic AOC wines to Grand Cru and everything in between. This is, supposedly, a simple village level Gevrey.

I say ‘supposedly’ as it’s anything but simple.

Ruby red colour with garnet edges and a perfumed nose of raspberry and red cherry fruit, cloves and then a slight smoke character from the oak.

The palate is very much medium bodied – this is not a feminine Pinot Noir, not a forest floor or floral in sight – with some robust red cherry and raspberry flavours, accentuated with charred wood and cedar, held together with a fine web of tannin with acidity to match. The finish goes on for days.

It’s almost a shame to be tasting wines like this at such a young age, with such a long life ahead of them. In any case, this wine was delicious.

I love that Burgundy wines, both whites and reds, show their terroir with such distinction – this was as unique as any of the previous two Burgundy wines I’ve tasted for this blog, all of them at the same AOC classification. Wines need to speak of their place in the world, what makes them unique and what sets them apart.

And that’s why, as much as I love tasting what’s new in the world, my heart belongs to Burgundy.

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